Brief
History of two Mountaineering
Pioneers of Ecuador |
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It was not until
1802 that an expedition led by the famous German scientist
and explorer Baron Alexander von Humbolt awakened
interest in the Ecuadorian Highlands. Humbolt studied
various peaks including Cotopaxi, Corazon, Antisana
and El Altar, but it is for his research on and attempted
ascent of Chimborazo that his expedition is particularly
remembered by mountaineers.
Humbolt
attempted Chimborazo with the idea that he was climbing
the highest peak on Earth. Even though he did not
reach the summit, he and his fellow mountaineers were
the first to reach such an elevation in the world.
Humbolt
gave to the Ecuadorian Andean Range the name of "
the Avenue of the Volcanoes", because one can
see from any peak two defined lines of mountains along
Ecuador, standing to the sides of the valleys where
the cities are. Since then, the name "the Avenue
of the Volcanoes" has been used to describe the
geographical structure of the entire Inter-Andean
valley and its mountains.
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The
remarkable expedition led by Edward Whymper in 1880
plays a very important roll in the history of mountaineering
in Ecuador. His expedition to this country must surely
rate as one of the most successful mountaineering expeditions
undertaken in that time. With the Italian guides Louis
and Jean Antoine Carrel, Whymper proceeded to climb
not only Cotopaxi, but also made the first ascent of
Chimborazo among other mountains in Ecuador.
After
Whimper's memorable journey no other important expeditions
occurred until the 20th century, when there was an
awakening of interest in mountaineering by national
climbers. The pioneer of Ecuadorian mountaineering
was Nicolas Martinez, who made the first Ecuadorian
ascents of many major peaks like Antisana in 1904,
a failed attempt on Cayambe in 1905, and successful
climbs of Cotopaxi and Chimborazo in 1906. A particular
noteworthy ascent was that of North Iliniza in 1912,
that became the only one of our 5.000 m peaks to be
first climbed by Ecuadorians.
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SUGGESTED
READING
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ECUADOR
A Climbing Guide,
Yossi Brain, The Mountaineers, 2000.
This
is a very informative book on climbing in Ecuador.
Trekking
in Ecuador, Robert & Daisy Kunstaetter,
The Mountaineers, 2002.
One
of the best trekking guides of the highlands of Ecuador.
Travel
Among the Great Andes of Ecuador,
Edward Whymper, 1891.
This
book describes the 1880 expedition which first climbed
Ecuador's highest peak, and made seven other first ascents.
Travels
to the Equinoctial Regions of the New Continent,
Alexander
von Humbolt & Aime Bonpland.
Fascinating
reading for anyone interested in the historical aspects
of the first explorations of the Andes.
The
Freedom of the Hills,
Don Grayton and Kurt Hanson, The Mountaineers, 1997.
The
most complete mountaineering book available today. |
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Ecuador’s
special appeal to mountaineers, trekkers,
and nature lovers can be summed up in
one word: accessibility. The country's
unique combination of small size, exceptional
geographic, ethnic and biological diversity,
and a good transportation infrastructure,
places an outstanding variety of splendid
experiences within easy reach of the adventurous
traveler.
Outrageously
easy access to the high mountains makes
Ecuador an excellent place to gain experience
of high altitude mountaineering, and
infinite opportunities to do trekking.
The majority of the high mountains in
the country can be reached in a day,
with the possibility to summit during
the night. As long, of course, as you
are acclimatized and conditions are
fine. This means that once you are acclimatized,
you can get a lot done in a short time.
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Our
home, Ecuador, is a climber's paradise, not
only for experienced climbers but also for people
looking for a first high altitude experience
over a relatively short time frame.
We
have learned that many climbers find the transition
from the Alps or the Rocky Mountains to the
Himalayas very difficult. Often people underestimate
such trips. We invite you to an excellent
preparation in the Andes! We offer you an
important step in the development of your
career as a high altitude mountaineer, while
enjoying the other marvelous treasures this
country has reserved for its visitors.
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Ecuador
is generally rated as one of the safe countries
of South America. As in any country in the
world, the golden rule is not to be in the
wrong place at the wrong time.
There are places,
mostly in the main cities, where you need
to remain vigilant at certain times but
once you get out to the countryside the
atmosphere is more relaxed. |
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Seasons
Ecuador
does not have four seasons as other parts of the
world. However it is possible to experience the
four seasons in a single day! It can start as a
sunny morning with hot temperatures, then become
cloudy and even throw a rampant hale storm and rain
showers early in the afternoon, just to end with
a beautiful sunset and a cold night. So while you
climb in our country, the time of the day is more
important than the time of the year.
You can
climb almost any day of the year, being the best
months from November to February to ascend the
mountains located on the eastern mountain range
or "cordillera". The rest of the mountains
can be climbed all year round. This phenomenon
is caused by the wet season in the Amazon Jungle
that sends its humidity up to the west affecting
the eastern cordillera.
For us,
the high season in Ecuador is actually determined
by the free time that European and American climbers
have for a climbing holiday. |
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"It
seemed certain that sooner or later we should
suffer like the rest of the world, but I
proposed to put off the evil day as long
as possible; to mount gradually and leisurely,
by small stages. So that there should be
no abrupt transition."
Edward Whymper
Travel among the Andes of Ecuador, 1892.
During any climbing
expedition the golden rule in acclimatization
is to climb high and to sleep low. Acclimatizing
takes time and there are no safe shortcuts.
All our expedition itineraries have been
carefully planned in order to avoid altitude
problems, although we need to mention that
every person reacts in a different way to
altitude. We therefore strongly advise you
to arrive in Quito two or three days before
the start of your program. |
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Altitude
Illness
Acute
Mountain Sickness (AMS)
Altitude
illness is primarily a result of a decreased
oxygen concentration in the blood caused
by the lower atmospheric pressure at high
altitude. Medical problems associated with
it include normally a number of uncomfortable
symptoms like headaches and nausea, which
can be described as mild AMS.
However, in some cases
mild AMS may develop into severe AMS. There
are two forms of severe AMS and they can
occur separately or together: HIGH ALTITUDE
CEREBRAL EDEMA (HACE), and HIGH ALTITUDE
PULMONARY EDEMA (HAPE). Both can be fatal
if not recognized and treated in time. Every
person who suffers from SEVERE AMS should
be taken to a lower altitude immediately.
People who rush the acclimatization process
are more vulnerable to AMS (see below acclimatization).
Several specialists
in high altitude medicine, recommend the
use of Acetazolamide (commercially known
as Diamox), taken as a prophylactic.
The consumption of Diamox is a personal
decision, please talk to your own doctor
before taking it. |
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