| DEPARTURES |
-Sunday 24th of June to Friday 6th of July 2012
-Sunday 8th of July to Friday 20th of July 2012
-Sunday 29th of July to Friday 10th of August 2012
(other dates can be arranged with a minimum of two climbers)
Please send us an e-mail to book this Volcanoes Expedition.
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| HIGHLIGHTS |
• Good first approach to climbing the Andes.
• Guiding ratio of 1:2 on Cotopaxi.
• Good first high altitude experience.
• A short and compact expedition with lots to do and enjoy.
• Local guides with international experience.
• Updated knowledge of the local conditions.
• Great accommodation in typical "Haciendas".
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| OTHER
CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS |
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"The
volcanoes of Ecuador have given the country
universal fame among the geologists of the
world. They are the terror of the indians,
the admiration of the conquistadors, the
study of the naturalist and the plague of
the people who live near them."
Edward Whymper, Travel Among the Andes of Ecuador, 1890.
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This is a 13 day itinerary, where you find high altitude climbing combined with moderate easy walking and cultural visits to historical places. Between the climbs you will stay in country side farms (haciendas) which have been converted into hostels.
Apart from this being an excellent mountaineering experience, you will also see the real life of the Ecuadorian country side.
Please note that Chimborazo, due to its difficult conditions, is not included in the program. On request, it can be added as an extension to the expedition. |
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Day
1
Sightseeing around Quito
2.800 m /9,184 ft
Night in Quito
As this is your first day at altitude 2,800 m / 9,184 ft, we will take you to do some easy walking and to see some interesting places such as the Middle of the World, 23 kilometers North of Quito where you find the Mitad del Mundo Equatorial Line Monument at an altitude of 2,480 m.
You can visit a very interesting ethnographic museum and a typical colonial town, with restaurants, gift shops and a post office.
The line of the equator was first determined by Charles-Marie de la Condamine and his French expedition in 1736. |
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| A few kilometers further on there is the Pululahua crater. It is one of the few inhabited craters in the world. Nowadays it is a geo botanical reserve. If there is time and especially if you have the energy (on your very first day) we will walk down into the crater. |
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Day
2
Pasochoa Hike
4.200 m / 13,700 ft
Night in Quito
Having had a day to begin the acclimatization process in Ecuador, we now go for the first summit of a volcano. After a short drive we hike out into the countryside towards Pasochoa. This mountain is an ancient and heavily eroded volcano that has been inactive since the last Ice Age. Perhaps one of the main reasons for this excursion is that Pasochoa is one of the few volcanoes where we may see condors flying - the largest flying birds in South America. We return for the night in Quito.
Day
3
Guagua Pichincha Hike
4.768 m / 15,600 ft
Night at a country side lodge
Easy access from Quito through the valley of Lloa makes Guagua Pichincha an excellent second acclimatization hike. Guagua (Quichua for “baby”) is one of the three major peaks that make up the Pichincha massive. Quito is actually built on a shelf on the eastern side of this massif.
The hike is again straightforward and will take 4 to 5 hours (round trip). In the past, it has been possible to descend into the crater of the volcano in order to watch the fumaroles and superheated water rising from its vents. Nowadays, it is no longer possible due to the increased activity of the volcano. After this hike we drive to El Chaupi village to stay the night in a basic, but clean lodge at the base of Iliniza. |
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Day
4
Iliniza North - Hike to the hut
4.700 m / 15,416 ft
Night at the hut
Iliniza North and South are located about 55 km South West of Quito. Originally, they were one volcano, which exploded and split in half a very long time ago! The two peaks are separated by a saddle. Their distance is about 2 km. Iliniza South is icy and therefore difficult. Iliniza North is rocky and a lot easier. 50 years ago Iliniza North had a glacier, but it has completely melted in the last few decades.
From the village of El Chaupi, located in the foothills of Iliniza, we drive up to the entrance of the Iliniza Ecological Reserve. From a place known as La Virgen at 4.000 m, where we leave our 4x4 jeep, we head towards the hut, hiking through the fields of the Hacienda el Refugio. Today’s walk will take 4 hours. This is the first night we spend at high altitude and therefore it plays a very important role in our acclimatization process. |
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Day
5
Iliniza North Summit Day
5.125 m / 16,800 ft
Night at El Chaupi
We will leave the hut at around 5am in order to get good views of Cotopaxi. The route is from the west side of the mountain, with some easy scrambling below the summit. From the summit, there are spectacular views of Iliniza South, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, the highest volcano in Ecuador. After the climb we return to the hut for some drinks, snacks and do a short drive to El Chaupi.
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Day
6
Drive to Hacienda Guachala
Otavalo Market in the afternoon
Night at Hacienda Guachala
Otavalo has one of the biggest indigenous markets of Ecuador. You will have a chance to buy local textiles and hand crafts. There is a market on every day of the week. However Saturday is the best day to visit.
Due to its wonderful colors, Otavalo is a paradise for photographers.
After the market we drive to Hacienda Guachala, the oldest Spanish hacienda converted now in a hotel www.guachala.com.
Day 7
Cayambe Drive and Hike to the Hut
4.600 m / 15,088 ft
Night at the hut
Cayambe is a massive glaciated extinct volcano. It is located about 68 km North East of Quito and is the highest point on the surface of the earth through which the Equator directly passes. Cayambe is the third highest mountain in Ecuador. It is characterized by good climbing opportunities and interesting glaciers. With easy access from a comfortable hut, the glaciers of Cayambe offer an outstanding venue for our glacier school review. Huge crevasses, complex icefalls and seracs provide the ideal setting for learning ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and a variety of other basic skills. |
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Day
8 / 9
Cayambe Glacier - Skills Review and Summit Attempt
5.780 m / 18,950 ft
Night at Refuge and Hacienda Guachala
During the glacier training on Cayambe on day 8 we cover the following subjects:
• Snow climbing, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
• Self arrest techniques
• Ice climbing (with top rope) and crampon techniques
• Prussiking
• Roped glacier travel
• Discussions on high altitude physiology and other related expeditionary topics
After the session you return to the refuge for a hearty meal.
On day 9 there will be a chance to attempt the summit of Cayambe.
The route to the summit follows diverse glacier terrain to near the summit crater. A gaping bergschrund presents a challenge in route finding and an exciting extra obstacle. The ascent normally takes seven hours and the descent three hours.
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Day 10
Drive to Hacienda El Porvenir
3.600 m / 11,808 ft
Night in El Porvenir.
On the north side of the Cotopaxi Park there is the Hacienda El Porvenir. It is one of the largest farms in Ecuador. It can be used as a base for excellent hikes within the Cotopaxi Park. Located at 3.600 m (11,808 ft), El Porvenir is surrounded by four volcanoes: Cotopaxi, Sicholahua, Pasochoa and Rumińahui. Here you will be able to
enjoy the views of the Andes.
The casa de hacienda, or farmhouse, is built with materials such as brick, straw, wood and adobe that have been used for centuries. |
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Day
11
Cotopaxi
4.800 m / 15,744 ft.
Night in the Refuge
We drive to 4.600 m and then walk to the Cotopaxi Refuge at 4.800 m / 15,144 ft.
Having arrived at the refuge at lunchtime, we rest in the afternoon and evening, preparing for a night time climb.
Cotopaxi is the most popular mountain in the Andes. It has more clear days than any other peak in Ecuador. Without a doubt it is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
Day 12
Cotopaxi summit day
5.897 m / 19,300 ft
We leave the refuge at around 1am in the morning. First we will climb to the top of a triangular scree slope above the refuge. A large featureless glacier is then followed, weaving between large, obvious crevasses. Bearing right, we pass below a large black rock before cutting back left to reach the ice encrusted crater rim. The final section is quite steep. The true summit lies along the crater rim to the right.
Cotopaxi's crater is a spectacular feature and the proximity of ice and steam vents is particularly impressive.
During the climb ropes will be used to protect the team from crevasses and also to provide protection on the steeper sections.
The ascent normally takes between five to seven
hours up and two hours down. |
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Day
13
Cotopaxi summit day
# 2.
Should the weather not
allow us to climb, the ascent can be delayed
one more day.
Drive back to Quito.
Important
Note:
Please note that this itinerary is a guide line only. We will do every effort to follow it, but in case of unforeseen circumstances we may have to make changes. Also note that flying days are not included in this program.
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1 pax $ 3.300,00 per person
2
pax $ 2.000,00 per person
3 pax $ 1.900,00 per person
4+ pax $1.700,00 per person
What
the price includes
• All transport by private vehicles
during the program.
• Accommodation:3 hotel nights in
Quito on B&B type, haciendas and huts.
All in double basis.
• All the food once out of Quito.
• Camping gear.
• Permits and park fees.
• One guide for the acclimatisation
hikes.
• One bilingual qualified mountain
guide per every two climbers on Cotopaxi.
• Climbing gear: Boots (up to 46 EU
/ 11 1/2 U.S.), crampons, harness, ice axe
and group gear such as ropes.
The Price
does not include
• International flights.
• Travel insurance.
• Lunch and evening meals while in
Quito.
• Alcoholic drinks.
• Extras, laundry, tips.
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| Duration
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13
days |
Next Departure |
24th of June |
| Seasons
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All
year round |
| Pre-requisites |
Backpaking
experience |
| Equipment |
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| Accommodation |
Hostels
and mountain refuges |
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| Pululahua
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Easy |
| Cuicocha |
Easy |
| Pambamarca |
Easy |
| Pasochoa |
Easy |
| North
Iliniza |
Intermediate |
| Cotopaxi |
Intermediate |
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