Excursions

South Iliniza

South Iliniza

South and North Ilinizas are located about 55 km south west of Quito. Originally, there was one volcano, which exploded in a massive eruption that split the mountain in half a very long time ago. The two peaks are separated by a saddle and are about 2 km away from one another. There is a small refuge between the two peaks: Iliniza South is icy and hard to climb. North Iliniza is rocky and a lot easier.


Itinerary

Hiking to the HutIliniza South offers some of the most accessible hard climbing from Quito. This steep and crevassed mountain is one of the more difficult climbs in Ecuador, and is not for beginners. The ascent of the South peak involves a modest gain in altitude but with some technical difficulty depending on the amount of snow there is at the time we go there. The route is from the south west side of the mountain and averages 40 degrees in angle, with some front pointing below the summit. From the top there are spectacular views of Iliniza North, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.





Day 1Arriving at the South Summit

  • Pick up at Quito at around 9:00
  • Travel for 2 hours to the Iliniza Ecological Reserve
  • 3 hour hike up to the hut
  • Safety talk and walk around during the afternoon
  • Early dinner at 18:00

Day 2

  • Climb South Iliniza leaving at 04:00
  • Descend from mountain to the hut
  • Rest, and packing
  • Descend to the vehicle
  • Return to Quito

Important Note: This schedule is subject to change due to unforeseen difficulties.


Map

Also see our Interactive Map.

South Iliniza

 

North Iliniza

North Iliniza

North and South Ilinizas are located about 55 km Southwest of Quito. Originally, there was one volcano, which exploded in a massive eruption that split the mountain in half a very long time ago. The two peaks are separated by a saddle and are about 2 km away from one another. There is a small refuge between the two peaks: Iliniza South is icy and hard to climb. North Iliniza is rocky and a lot easier.


Itinerary

On top with Cotopaxi and Antisana BehindThe ascent of the North peak involves only a modest gain in altitude.
The route is from the west side of the mountain, with some easy scrambling below the summit. From the top there are spectacular views of Iliniza South, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo.
Fifty years ago North Iliniza still had a glacier, but it has completely melted in the last few decades. So now it is rocky and quite easy to climb.

 

 



Scrambling to the Summit

Day 1

  • Pick up at Quito at around 9:00
  • Travel for 2 hours to the Iliniza Ecological Reserve
  • 3 hour hike up to the hut
  • Safety talk and walk around during the afternoon
  • Early dinner at 18:00

Day 2

  • Climb Iliniza North leaving at 05:00
  • Descend from mountain to the hut
  • Rest, and packing
  • Descend to the vehicle
  • Return to Quito

Important Note: This schedule is subject to change due to unforeseen difficulties.


Map

Also see our Interactive Map.

North Iliniza

 

Glacier School

Glacier School

Andeanface Glacier School is a three days climbing excursion that provides the knowledge, skills, and experience essential for safe and enjoyable climbing, in a high altitude glaciated mountain environment.
Our core curriculum emphasises safety, judgment and basic glacier skills. It is a great introductory mountaineering experience for beginners where you can discover how your body reacts to the high mountain environment.
If participants have an intermediate skills level, the course could be focused on more advanced climbing techniques such as ice climbing and crevasse rescue systems. Experience is not required. During the training you will learn about:

Practising Ice Climbing

  • Knots and ropes
  • Glacier travel
  • Crampon techniques
  • Ice axe techniques
  • Crevasse rescue
  • Ice climbing
  • How to prepare yourself for mountain climbing
  • Equipment used in the mountains

The training will be provided on a 1:3 ratio, which means one guide for every three students. Therefore every student will get all the attention he or she needs, which will guarantee you will be able to experience all aspects of the training course. Our guides provide excellent instruction and coaching.



Itinerary

The course is primarily an intensive high altitude glacier course, but it will test the acquired skills by attempting to summit Cayambe 5.790 m / 18,991 ft. The challenging, long alpine slopes of Cayambe provide an excellent introduction to glacier travel techniques on a big peak.

Day 1Glacier Travel on Cayambe

  • Pick up at hotel in Quito at around 8:00
  • Travel for 2 hours to Cayambe
  • Short hike up to the hut (depending on road conditions)
  • Talk about the program and rope work inside the hut
  • Lunch at 12:30
  • Principles of glacier travel
  • Walking techniques on the glacier
  • Dinner at 19:00

Day 2

  • Leave for the Hermoso Glacier at 08:00
  • Glacier travel techniques
  • Lunch at the Glacier
  • Self a rest
  • Anchors in snow and ice
  • Self rescue

Day 3

  • Optional summit day on Cayambe or continue the glacier school with ice climbing
  • Return to Quito at 16:00

Important Note: This schedule is subject to change due to unforeseen difficulties.


Map

Also see our Interactive Map.

Glacier School

 

Glacier School

Glacier School

Andeanface Glacier School is a three days climbing excursion that provides the knowledge, skills, and experience essential for safe and enjoyable climbing, in a high altitude glaciated mountain environment.
Our core curriculum emphasises safety, judgment and basic glacier skills. It is a great introductory mountaineering experience for beginners where you can discover how your body reacts to the high mountain environment.
If participants have an intermediate skills level, the course could be focused on more advanced climbing techniques such as ice climbing and crevasse rescue systems. Experience is not required. During the training you will learn about:

Practising Ice Climbing

  • Knots and ropes
  • Glacier travel
  • Crampon techniques
  • Ice axe techniques
  • Crevasse rescue
  • Ice climbing
  • How to prepare yourself for mountain climbing
  • Equipment used in the mountains

The training will be provided on a 1:3 ratio, which means one guide for every three students. Therefore every student will get all the attention he or she needs, which will guarantee you will be able to experience all aspects of the training course. Our guides provide excellent instruction and coaching.



Itinerary

The course is primarily an intensive high altitude glacier course, but it will test the acquired skills by attempting to summit Cayambe 5.790 m / 18,991 ft. The challenging, long alpine slopes of Cayambe provide an excellent introduction to glacier travel techniques on a big peak.

Day 1Glacier Travel on Cayambe

  • Pick up at hotel in Quito at around 8:00
  • Travel for 2 hours to Cayambe
  • Short hike up to the hut (depending on road conditions)
  • Talk about the program and rope work inside the hut
  • Lunch at 12:30
  • Principles of glacier travel
  • Walking techniques on the glacier
  • Dinner at 19:00

Day 2

  • Leave for the Hermoso Glacier at 08:00
  • Glacier travel techniques
  • Lunch at the Glacier
  • Self a rest
  • Anchors in snow and ice
  • Self rescue

Day 3

  • Optional summit day on Cayambe or continue the glacier school with ice climbing
  • Return to Quito at 16:00

Important Note: This schedule is subject to change due to unforeseen difficulties.


Map

Also see our Interactive Map.

Glacier School

 

Cayambe

Cayambe

Cayambe is a massive glaciated extinct volcano. It is located about 68 km North East of Quito and is the highest point on the surface of the earth through which the Equator line directly passes. Cayambe is the third highest mountain in Ecuador. With easy access from a comfortable hut, the glaciers of Cayambe offer an outstanding venue for our Mountaineering School. Huge crevasses, complex ice falls and seracs provide the ideal setting for learning ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and a variety of other basic skills.


Itinerary

Cayambe at 4.900mCayambe is characterised by good climbing opportunities and interesting glaciers.
The route to the summit follows diverse glacier terrain to near the summit crater.
A gaping bergschrund presents a challenge in route finding and an exciting extra obstacle.

The ascent normally takes seven hours and the descent three hours.

 


 

 

 Day 1On the Way to the Summit

  • Pick up at Quito at around 8:30
  • Travel for 2 hours to the Cayambe Ecological Reserve
  • Skills review and safety talk during the afternoon
  • Early dinner at 18:00

Day 2

  • Climb Cayambe leaving at around 01:00
  • Descend from mountain
  • Rest, lunch and packing
  • Return to Quito

Important Note: This schedule is subject to change due to unforeseen difficulties.


Map

Also see our Interactive Map.

Cayambe

 

 

 

 

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Climbing Difficulty Levels

The following scale reflects the difficulty of the climb considering the technical specifications, experience required, altitude and duration of the ascent. The grades are roughly estimated and you have to take into account the difficulty varies depending on your personal fitness and experience.

Intermediate - No previous mountaineering skills are required. Climbers should be in acceptable physical condition and it is highly recommended that participants have some backpacking experience. In some cases a rope may be used to belay some exposed places.

Advanced - Basic mountaineering skills required, experience in high altitude and use of climbing gear such as crampons, rope and ice axe is preferred, but not required. A moderate climb usually is on a glacier, you may have to cross some crevasses, the slopes are not so steep (max. 40%) and full gear is used on all climbs. Very good physical condition is required.

Strenuous - More than 6.000 m / 19,600 ft technical climbs with steep snow slopes and exposed ridges, you may encounter some crevassed sections. Experience in high altitude and proper use of equipment as well as some knowledge of mountaineering techniques are required. Climbers should be comfortable on snow and ice up to 50 degrees. An excellent physical condition is a must.

Ascension Success Rates

The following information is based on our own records since 2005. It represents the percentage of trips in which we have taken at least one client to the summit.
Besides the percentage, we also give you a brief description of the most common cause for not been able to reach the top.

Chimborazo: 70%
Icy conditions and lack of stamina from climbers ( clients running out of fuel!)

Cotopaxi: 85%
Strong winds.

Cayambe: 75%
Bad Weather.

Antisana: 65%
Not being able to cross the bergschrund around the summit.