South Iliniza 5.248 m / 17,213 ft

The most accessible hard climbing from Quito

DURATION 2 days

DIFFICULTY Strenuous

TRIP OVERVIEW

South and North Ilinizas are located about 55 km south west of Quito. Originally, there was one volcano, which exploded in a massive eruption that split the mountain in half a very long time ago. The two peaks are separated by a saddle and are about 2 km away from one another. There is a small refuge between the two peaks: Iliniza South is icy and hard to climb. North Iliniza is rocky and a lot easier.

Arrive/Depart: Quito

Group Size: 1:2

Pre-requisites: Climbing experience on ice up to 45 degrees

Difficulty Levels: Strenuous
EXPLAIN DIFFICULTY LEVELS

Extension: Optional 1 extra day for weather contingency

Access/Depart: Drive in and drive out with 3 hours hike to the hut

Accomodation: Nuevos Horizontes Hut (4.700 m / 15,416 ft)

Activity: Hiking / Climbing

Seasons: All year round

Equipment: Climbing Excursions Gear List
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ITINERARY

Iliniza South offers some of the most accessible hard climbing from Quito. This steep and crevassed mountain is one of the more difficult climbs in Ecuador, and is not for beginners. The ascent of the South peak involves a modest gain in altitude but with some technical difficulty depending on the amount of snow there is at the time we go there. The route is from the south west side of the mountain and averages 40 degrees in angle, with some front pointing below the summit. From the top there are spectacular views of North Iliniza, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.

DAY
01

Travel to Iliniza Ecological Reserve

  • Pick up at Quito at around 9:00
  • Travel for 2 hours to the Iliniza Ecological Reserve
  • 3 hour hike up to the hut
  • Safety talk and walk around during the afternoon
  • Early dinner at 18:00

Activity: 3 hour trekking

Transportation: 2-hour private van/jeep transfer

Meals: Lunch / Dinner

DAY
02

Summit South Iliniza / Return to Quito

  • Climb South Iliniza leaving at 04:00
  • Descend from mountain to the hut
  •  Rest, and packing
  • Descend to the vehicle
  • Return to Quito

Activity: 5 hours climbing up / 2 hours descending

Transportation: 2-hour private van/jeep transfer

Meals: Lunch

Important: Please note that this itinerary is a guideline only. We will do every effort to follow it, but in case of unforeseen circumstances we may have to make changes.

HIGHLIGHTS

  • Sixth highest mountain of Ecuador
  • The most accessible hard climbing from Quito
  • Great views of Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Antisana
  • Good technical climb above 5.000 m / 16,400 ft.
  • All year around climbing
  • Horse support if requested

MAP

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COMPLIMENTARY
EXTENSIONS

Our Complimentary Extension Packages offer great opportunities to explore some of Ecuador’s most dramatic scenaries, which have earned the country a reputation as one of the most bio diverse and unique regions on the planet.

We work with carefully selected tourism operators, which will offer the same quality and high standards of service that our clients expect from us.

You can choose from a selection of various (active) outdoor activities in the Galapagos, the Cloud Forest or Amazon Jungle. We highly recommend to extent your trip with a rafting experience.

VIEW EXTENSION TOURS

WHY TAKE THIS TRIP WITH US?

Our mountain guides are an integral part of Andeanface because they understand and share our climbing principles. The quality of our guiding staff is the primary difference between us and our competitors. The guides we employ are personally known to us for several years, this has given us some of the best reputation. More importantly we consider safety on the mountains our main goal.

WHAT TO EXPECT?

Activities

Hiking, steep climbing on 40 degress

Terrain

South Iliniza is the most accessible hard climb from Quito

Travel

We travel to Iliniza by jeep, and hike for 3 hours to the hut, horse support is an option

Weather

Due to its position west of the Andean range, is one of the peaks which has more sable weather

SUGGESTED COMBINATIONS

Even some of the smallest of the 5.000 m / 16,400 ft peaks of Ecuador require some acclimatisation training.

Cuicocha Lagoon Trek

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Duration

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Elevation

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Difficulty

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Pasochoa Trek

A great trek with a view of the pristine forest…

Duration

1 day

Elevation

4.200 m / 13,776 ft

Difficulty

Easy
Corazon

A long trek on a mountain with a “heart”

Duration

1 day

Elevation

4.788 m / 15,704 ft

Difficulty

Moderate