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AndeanFace > Ecuador Mountaineering tips

1.What is the best time to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • We do not have very defined climbing or trekking seasons in Ecuador (unlike other parts of the world) due to the fact that we are on the equator.
  • We can basically climb or hike all year; however, the summer (June-August) is drier, it can often be windy. During the rainy season from (November to February) we have more rain, snow and a bit better success rate.
  • Weather tends to be a bit better around the full moon of every month. Christmas and new year time mountains tend to be more crowded. Let us quote what Yossi Brian, a British writer, wrote in his book of mountaineering Ecuador:

“More important that the time of the year is the time of the day when you climb in Ecuador”. “Cotopaxi and Chimborazo have the largest number of clear days amongst the high peaks of Ecuador”.

Yossi Brian

Ecuador a Climbing Guide

The Mountaineers

2. How difficult is to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • Both are rated (PD) little difficult.
  • Both are classified as technically moderate but physically demanding and challenging.
  • Chimborazo tends to be harder due to lack of snow (icy conditions) specially during the summer.
  • Chimborazo is about 15% physically harder than Cotopaxi.
  • The average slope is between 30 and 40 degrees steep.
  • Both require at least 7 to 9 days of hike preparation in high altitude to allow proper acclimatization.
  • For most climbers, Cotopaxi is classified as technically moderate but physically demanding. It is not a vertical climb, but a high mountain expedition on glaciers that requires great endurance.
  • Climbing Chimborazo (6,263 m) is physically very demanding challenge and considered advanced, not because of its technical difficulty (which is moderate), but because of the extreme altitude and prolonged physical effort, being often described as a steep and exhausting hike on ice/snow.

3. What gear do I need to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • Specialized, high-altitude mountain gear to handle freezing, windy, and wet conditions, including technical gear (crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet) and a robust layering system is required.
  • We provide technical gear if requested, but you must bring or rent proper mountaineering boots, waterproof outer and thermal layers.

4. Are there any altitude-related risks when climbing Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • Proper acclimatization is essential, as rapid ascent can lead to severe, life-threatening conditions like AMS, HAPE or HACE.
  • Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS):Common symptoms include headaches, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, and insomnia.
  • HAPE & HACE:High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (fluid in lungs) and High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (fluid in brain) are severe risks requiring immediate descent.
  • Physical Strain:The air pressure is much lower, making breathing difficult and requiring higher physical exertion.
  • Significant altitude-related risksdue to the extreme elevation and thin air, which could cause Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) if acclimatization not good enough.

5. What is the success rate when climbing Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • Cotopaxi climbing success rates generally depends on right acclimatization, range from 70% to over 85%, though some local guides may cite lower figures (30-40%) due to altitude sickness. The 5.000+meter peaks are non-technical but requires excellent acclimatization, high physical fitness, and endurance to navigate steep glaciers.
  • Success rates for climbing Chimborazo generally range from 60% – 65% on average due to fickle weather and high-altitude challenges. However, with proper, pre-planned acclimatization, and good conditions, summit success rates can improve to around 70% – 80%.

6. How long does it take to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • Climbing Cotopaxi (5,897m) generally takes 6 to 8 hours for the ascent from the José Rivas Refuge (4,864m) to the summit, followed by a 2 to 3-hour descent. The entire summit push typically begins around midnight, covering roughly 1,000m (3,300ft) of elevation gain in a single, challenging 10-hour, high-altitude, and glacier-covered climb.
  • Climbing Chimborazo typically takes 2 days for the full excursion, with the final summit push lasting 10 to 12 hours (round trip from the high camp). Climbers usually begin the ascent around midnight, reaching the summit (6,263m / 20,600ft) by early morning to avoid soft snow.

7. Are Cotopaxi and Chimborazo harder than Kilimanjaro?

  • Yes, Cotopaxi (5,897m/19,347ft) is generally considered harder and more challenging than Kilimanjaro (5,895m/19,341ft). While similar in altitude, Cotopaxi is a technical glacier climb requiring crampons, ice axes, and rope team skills, whereas Kilimanjaro is a non-technical high-altitude trek.
  • Yes, Chimborazo is significantly harder than Kilimanjaro. While both are high-altitude volcanoes, Chimborazo requires technical glacier skills, crampons, and ice axes to navigate steep, icy terrain at higher altitudes (+ 6,000m / +19,680) compared to the steep trekking/hiking nature of Kilimanjaro (-6,000m / +19,680)

8. How fit do I need to be to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • Both peaks are physically demanding, a good level of fitness is required.
  • Someone who exercises at least 3 to 4 times a week for at least 1 or 2 hours a day. Aerobic endurance such as: gym workout, football, basketball, tennis, swimming, biking, cycling, hiking, etc.

9. Do I need to plan an extra summit day when climbing Cotopaxi and Chimborazo?

  • No, even when weather is not good enough, we, as guides, still attempt to summit. Very often, based on our experience, we can say that, when the sun comes out day weather tends to improve.

10. Should I rely on the weather forecast?

  • Due to the fact that we are on the Equator, we have a microclimate weather system that makes the forecast much less reliable than when it is used in the north or south hemispheres.
  • Very often, when you check the forecast, it usually shows rainy conditions in the area. We could not cancel a climb based on weather prediction; however, it can be a risk and is out of our control.

11. How good are Ecuadorian mountaineering guides?

  • Ecuadorian mountain guides are highly skilled, professional, and internationally recognized, with many certified by ASEGUIM (Ecuadorian Association of Mountain Guides) and the international IFMGA/UIAGM standard.

12. What makes Ecuador having good mountaineering guides?

  • Ecuadorian mountain guides are exceptionally skilled due to rigorous training under international standards, including mentorship from the French School of Guides (ENSA) since 1994, and official certification from ASEGUIM (Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association) and the international federation IFMGA.

13. What is the guiding ratio to climb the volcanoes of Ecuador?

  • The standard guiding ratio for climbing major volcanoes in Ecuador (such as Cotopaxi, Cayambe, and Chimborazo) is 1 guide to 2 clients (1:2).
  • For North Iliniza is 1 guide to 4 clients
  • For more challenging routes, steeper sections (especially on El Altar), 1:1 ratio is highly recommended.

14. What is ASEGUIM?

  • ASEGUIM (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña) is the professional organization for mountain guides in Ecuador, providing training, certification, and high-safety standards for mountaineering and climbing. Now, part of the UIAGM-IFMGA

15. How are mountain rescues operated in Ecuador?

  • Mountain rescues in Ecuador are operated by the Police rescue team in cooperation with ASEGUIM rescue team.

16. How did ASEGUIM start?

  • ASEGUIM (Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña) was founded in 1990 to organize, train, and certify mountain guides in Ecuador, addressing the need for safety, professionalism, and specialized mountain rescue amidst rising adventure tourism. It was initially sponsored by the National School of Guides from France (ENSA)

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